As I headed Southeast from Nashville, I had about a 30 minute drive to reach the Stones River battlefield visitors center, and I arrived at 2pm. It rained during part of the drive, and the temp continued to hover in the low 40s, but that was actually good because these are similar weather conditions to what the Soldiers experience during the battle. After arriving, I spent about 30 minutes in the visitors center, where they have a good film about the battle, and I picked up a map of the 6 stop driving tour.
My first stop is the area where the Union center camped the night before the battle. Despite the freezing temperatures the night before the battle campfires were not allowed because the enemy was close by. At this stop there is one sign, and a number you can call to get more info.
Stop #2 is the area that became known as the slaughter pen. Walking straight down from the parking area the trail then cuts into the woods, and goes through the area where Sheridan's and Negley's divisions fought a desperate struggle before being forced to fall back. Sheridan sense that a Confederate attack was coming, and woke his troops up early, and had them on line when the attack began. Negley's troops were able to hold out next to them for 2 hours, until Sheridan's troops ran out of Ammo and were forced to retreat. This left Negley's troops exposed, and there were Confederates on 3 sides before they were able to fall back. The stand here by these two divisions gave the Union time to reform the lines near the Nashville Pike and Railroad. Many of the Union troops fighting in this area were from Chicago and had seen the large meatpacking slaughter pens back home, and gave this area the name.
After walking this approx 1/2 mile loop through the Slaughter Pen, my hands were pretty cold, and I was ready to jump back in the car, and continue moving.
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| Slaughter Pen |
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| Area of Slaughter Pen where Union troops were almost surrounded |
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| Limestone formations that Union Soldiers used for cover in the Slaughter Pen |
Pulling up to the next stop I see a car running with a couple of ladies sitting in it obviously trying to stay warm, while someone they are with walks around the battlefield. I start walking down the trail that looks out over the Cotton field. From here you can see the Nashville Pike, and railroad where the Union troops rallied during the battle. Over 30 cannon were lined up to sweep this field, as confederates tried to push the Union off the field. The closest they got was about 60 yards from the Union lines, before they pulled back.
I walked along the rest of the trail, but there was only the one marker near the beginning, so I head back to the car to keep moving on.
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| Cotton Field where Confederate advance was stopped |
Stop number 4 is the area where the Pioneer Brigade, and the Chicago Board of Trade Battery stopped the confederates short of the Nashville Pike. A short walk through the woods takes you by what remains of the Pioneer Brigade's earthworks. The National Park has put up several silhouettes to help show where the trenches are. To get there you have to pass a couple of Cannons representing the Chicago Board of Trade Battery.
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| Pioneer Brigade's Earthworks, where they held the line on the first day |
The loop around the Pioneer Brigade's trenches and the battery is only a couple of hundred yards, but as I come back I see something running down the road running towards my car. It turned out to be a big old turkey, that then cut back into the woods.
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| Now that is the right weapon for Turkey hunting |
My next stop isn't one of the numbered stops on the tour, but is only about a mile down the road, and that is MG Rosecracs' HQ. Not too much here, just a small monument, and a marker talking about the battle, so it is back on the road.
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| MG Rosecracs' HQ |
I then take another quick stop as I pull into the Stones River National Cemetery, that was first started following the battle, it sits across from the Visitor Center, and between the Nashville Pike, and railroad.
Back to the numbered stops on the tour, the next stop is the fight for Round Forest, and the spot that is better known as Hell's half acre. Here BG Hazen's BDE was the only Union unit that held it's position for the entire day.
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| Hell's Half Acre - The only part of the Union line to hold for the entire 1st day |
Also at Hell's Half Acre is the oldest Civil War Monument in the country. This was built 4 months after the battle in the Spring of 1863 by the veterans of the battle who fought at this spot. Many members of their unit are buried around the monument. The monument stands right next to the railroad, so that anyone passing by would see it, and remember the battle at this spot.
This is a small area, so I'm back in the car pretty quickly, and moving out again. My next stop is McFadden's Ford. I head over and down to a boat launch, where a short walking path usually connects this side of the road, with the markers up on the otherside, but due to flooding in the river, I have to jump back in the car and drive back around to the another parking area to check this site out.
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| Oldest Civil War monument - Built shortly after the battle in 1863 by the men who fought there |
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| River was a little higher today then during the battle |
When I get to the ridge overlooking McFadden's ford it is about 4:15pm. From this spot 58 Union Artillery pieces crushed a Confederate attack trying to cross the river on the 3rd day of the battle. The massive casualties caused by this concentration of artillery caused the confederates to pull back and head towards Chattanooga.
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| Union Batteries overlooking McFadden's Ford |
It is about 4:30, getting dark, and still cold as I finish up walking around McFadden's ford, as I get back in the car. I still have a couple of stops to make before making the 2 hour drive home. I want to head down the road a little bit to see the earthworks that remain from the massive Fortress Rosecrans. Fortress Rosecrans was a massive series of earthworks designed to protect the Union Army that would operate out of the area. Inside was several redoubts that would allow it to protect the supplies stored there should the outer walls be overrun. A section of the earthworks is still in pretty good shape, and there are several markers along the way to explain what it looked like while the Army was there. As I walked around it started to rain a little bit, and now it was getting pretty dark, so I decided to head for the car and head home.
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| Earthworks at Fortress Rosecrans |
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| Redoubt Brannan inside Fortress Rosecrans |
Overall a great trip to the Murfeesboro's area to see the battlefield, and I would recommend it if you are passing through the area. I did it in 3 hours, I could have easily spent at least another hour walking some of the trails, and spending some more time outside.
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